Friday 16 November 2012

Autumn in the easternmost point of Turkey


Autumn has come to Gaziantep. Streets gradually change their appearance. Instead of ice cream selling hot chocolate and lemonade instead sahleb. The sun was replaced by rain, it got cold. Rain and sun alternate in a derived order and cannot predict what will happen after. "Russian Roulette" weather definitely hinders the movement of the city. But the output can be found.
For example, salsa. When it's cold outside and the mood at zero ideal dance. So I thought about it and have not regretted. On campus twice a week, you can hear salsa and bachata, free to all comers. The lesson lasts two hours, and we're learning the basic steps. Despite the fact that I'm not the greatest dancer started not going to give up.
Autumn inexplicably brought changes in our lives, good or bad, but it brought. In our house, it became more per occupant. Little puppy selected Sarah lives in the garden. Now, every morning is a miracle brings "order" on the first floor and, of course, feeds secret passion for our shoes.
But the students in my class diminished, perhaps the weather does its job, whether toys have become complicated, feasibly I no longer relevant. But those who were wonderful and talented people, perhaps, these toys will be their warm on cold winter nights.
This week, the middle of the project and the strange thoughts overwhelm me, it's like a midlife crisis. I know what I've done and what is to be, but time to pick up a damn. Maybe it's good that we do not know his time.
And the world does not stand still and autumn stirs her golden wings and listening to this song I'm learning realize the fading city. Sunny days are perfectly suited for the flowers, and the magic of paint always diversify the city. So the Botanical Garden was the first of what I remembered. It is close to Sanko Park, a huge shopping center and is very cozy place. By the way, walking among the flowers, constantly come meet the wedding procession. The groom, the bride, friends and inseparable photographer company.
In the evening, when the city puts out the lights (and it is about 20.00) to our house come different people. I do not know them, Sarah usually invites these strangers. And we sit in the garden or in the "office" and talk and drink. In those moments, I sometimes wonder how amazing life here in Gaziantep, I meet so many different and similar people. People from other countries and cultures, people who never see when the door slammed shut behind them, and that's good. Everything comes and goes, like the flow of the river is changing and I definitely like it slow unhurried during the autumn river.
Trying all the goodies of the fall season, I believe that the autumn will bring many more surprises in this town at the crossroads of history.



Friday 9 November 2012

Famagusta and Nicosia. A trip on the island during the Kurban Bayramı . Part I

The 24th of October the holiday time of Kurban Bayramı started. It is also called 'Feast of the Sacrifice': during these days (generally three days) the families meet and spend the time together with their relatives.
Here are more informations about the Kurban Bayramı.
Briefly, for some, there is the sacrifice of a domestic animal, according to the religious tradition coming from the order that God gave to Abraham to sacrifice his only son Ishmael: the animal in Gaziantep has been mostly a sheep, sometimes a cow, and it was divided into three parts, one to eat within the familiars, another part to be conserved and the third one to be donated to the poorest people of the community.

I was waiting for this ceremomy in Gaziantep: few weeks ago I had an anticipation when our neighbours brought a sheep in their house so I could hear it bleating in every moment of the day. I also saw some children walking with the sheep near some green area and other signs that the sacrifice day was coming were everywhere.

On friday morning, in fact, the smell of barbecue fulfilled the air in the city with intense tones of blood and mountain animals skin.

Walking around the street was assisting to a slaughter were open air people (generally men) was cutting and cooking the animal that few instants before was alive. From my vegetarian point of view, of course, this ceremony is hard to like and my only hope was to run somewhere.

So I went to Cyprus and that was also an adventure.

What can I say about the days spent in the island?

Firstly, that it is a very touristic place and, even if it was no season, tourists from Germany, Usa and different parts of Europe were everywhere. They were mainly attracted by the beach life and many old people and couples were there, to spend relaxed holidays. But another part of this tourists was also attracted by the historical places, that I had no time to explore enough.


Secondly, I must say that Cyprus is a fascinating place, both for the nature and for the history. 
I mean, an island which is shared into two different Countries is so special in itself and special are the people who live and were born there! I heard at many interesting stories about the facts that happened there: after romans, ottomans and greek occupations, the island was de facto governed by greeks and became part of the Euro zone in 2007, but only a portion of it. Why? Because in 1974 the turkish army,  claiming the right to own Cyprus (Kıbrıs), fighted against the greeks and obtain (better say expropriate) the northern part of the island. And what happened? A border was raised to separate the areas and nowadays the visitors have to pass thorough a check point each time they want to cross the island. The problem comes if you are a turk or if you come from a turkey-supporter country, for es. Pakistan : it is forbidden to go in the southern part, which is actually "Cyprus". The turkish side is called "Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus" and is a kind of state, only recognized by Turkey itself.

The most beautiful city I saw in it is Famagusta. The city, famous for it harbor and its churches, was firstly governed by greeks, then genoans and venetians (italian) till the ottoman owning in 1570. During the turkish conquest of the island, Famagust was the last to succumb because of its strong fortifications built at the time by the venetian military Marcantonio Bragadin. After the official conquest in 1571, the city had an english period, because of the colonization of the island by the british empire.
You immediately notice the signs of the colonization by walking in the streets: the drive is on the right!
By the way the island get the independence the 16 august 1960.

What is most fascinating in it is the ancient wall that surrounds the port and the ancient centre of the city. I was talking about churches: well, Famagusta has hundreds of churches, no matter the religion 'cause for its different inhabitants, many beliefs were brought in the land. We still find catholic churches and mosques, entires, restructured, adapted to a new use or ruins. 
I was impressed by the Gothic Cathedral of St. Nicolas, built in the IV century, it was damaged in 1571 by the turkish army and then converted into a mosque and became the Lala Mustafa Pasha mosque.







... The second part about Nicosia is coming soon...  stay tuned ;)